psilandia

General photolinks

Nikon

Nikonlinks, a very extensive site all about Nikon.

DIY Remote release for Nikon electronic cameras. Great work from J.Suokas!

Photography overall.

photo.net, THE place :)

aukea.net/valokuvaus, a Finnish place for getting some feedback on your pictures.

Ken Rockwell, this guy writes some nice articles.

Tony Spadaro's The Camera-ist's Manifesto. Very nice reading.

Programs for indexing photos.

Cumulus.

Kudo.

Portfolio.

ThumbsPlus.

PhotoLibrary.

Nice galleries.

Kirzi.net, pretty gallery.

Petri Kekkonen, beautiful, thought-of, pictures using perfect technique ;)

Harri Ahola, a different perspective to everyday views.

Finnish / Suomalaista

NEWS: sfnet.harrastus.valokuvaus omassa uutislukijassanne.

NEWS: s.h.v Googlen kautta.

sfnet.harrastus.valokuvaus FAQ (Usein Kysytyt Kysymykset).

Makupalat -- valokuvaus-osio, paljon valokuvaukseen liittyviä linkkejä.

Valokuva.net.

Valokuva.net:n kuvalinkit, suomalaisia valokuvaajia, lienee Suomen laajin valokuva-aiheinen linkistö.

Kauppoja..

MR. Kamera, käytettyjen 'kuningas'.

TopShot, käytettyjä & uusia.

Foto Fennica, asiantuntemusta & hyvää palvelua.

Scandinavian Photo lahden takana ovat linssit terävämpiä (+ halvempia =).

Foto Tapio, asiantuntemusta ja erinomaista palvelua, täällä sinua autetaan.

Teknofokus, mm. venäläistä peiliteleä ja lasia kuin lasia.

Tokina AF 19-35mm 1:3.5-4.5D / Japan

After thinking for a long time about this type of lenses (wide angle), i finally bite the bullet and bought this. I think this is second best lens I own. I really like the wide end, and 35mm isn't bad either. Some pictures can be seen here.
Some technical data

• Model AF 193 (beware of other version, it's made by Cosina, and is rumoured to have really bad quality problems. AF193 is designed by Tokina itself, former Nikon engineers)
• Focus: ∞ - 0.4m
• Mount: AF-D
• Filter: 77m
• Appertures: (wide f3.5, long 4.5) - (wide f22, long f32)
• Body is hard, metallish plastic.
• Mount is metal.
• Feels heavy -> metal + optics inside.
• IF, Front ring does not rotate on zooming or focusing, no need to adjust filter.

Zenit ET

Very metallic piece. Lack of longer exposure times (apart from B) was a bummer. I figured out how Selenium meter worked about week before I bought F801s, so didn't get lot's of good pictures.

How Zenit ET's selenium light meter works

See that 'sun panel' above lens? It's that selenium panel. In bright sunlight, try convering it and notice how a needle in a window (near film rewind lever) moves. Use a ring with numbers on it (near film rewind lever) to adjust a ring in that window to be about where that needle is. Now those value pairs tell you acceptable combinations of time/apperture.
Remember that selenium meter is incident meter, so it may be a way off. Some experimenting will definitely pay off.

How Zenit ET's film rewind works

Shutter release button is protruded from body, usually black piece. It has a dent, You're supposed to press inner 'shell' inside this dent with a finger. There will be a click, and you will be able to rewind the film with lever on the left side of the body (it's turned around and hidden in 'light-meter' -ring). Rewind film until it feels like it's off the winding lever, now you can pull the rewinding lever higher, it will open the film compartment.

(info).

Hoya HMC Yellow (K2)

This is for BW, it makes blue darker so clouds will be seen on sky.

Nikon pre-AI to AI lens mount minimal modification.

I converted a NIKKOR SA Auto 50/1.4 to 'AI' mount, using only a file found from 'el cheapo' leatherman and a sort-of-knife.
Please note that these apply only to Nikkor SA Auto 50/1.4 lens! This is NOT 'full' AI modification. This is 'just' enough to make at least f801s & F70 apperture working. Main difference with getting other lenses converted for similar bodies is where point 2 is. You can look it up here. For example with a max f/4 lens, point 2 is where f/20 (f16+2/3stops) is marked on the apperture ring.

Well, to make this story short:

• Remove screws holding 'claw'
• Turn apperture ring to show 5.6
• Mark on apperture ring where screw (in picture below at arrow 3) is.
• Use file to grind about 0.8 mm (not very exact) out of apperture ring's edge.
• Grind same amount at the point where f/8 is.
• Now grind off all that metal (off the apperture ring) in between.
• Remember to dust that metal off once in a while, I personally just tapped it lightly, and all dust came off.
• Other tips:
• Focus near prior any operations -> rear lens will be hidden. (optionally use rearlens -cap, but beware that it may be damaged, and will encumber your actions, too).
• Use a good (from hard metal) knife to make points (1 & 2) look sharp, I also used it for cutting the aluminium.

1. This is where one can start rifling the metal off the Apperture ring.
2. This is where 'meter coupling ridge' starts for Nikkor SA 50/1.4, You can't see it, but it's right in the middle of the f/8. Another good checkpoint is that second of the "claw's" screwholes is right there.
3. When you set apperture at f/5.6, point (1) will be right at point (3).

Some pointers:

Info on Nikon F-mount.
John White's AI conversions, interecting data there.

Remote control for F-801(s), F70 (US: N8008(s), N70) and relative cameras (Virtually replaces Nikon MC-12A).

I made a remote shutter/AF release for my F-801s camera, based on J.Suokas' excellent original work.
I managed to make some things differently, so I think I should share them with you.
Things I did differently:

• A bit cleaner.
• Camera side contact is easier to make (depends..)

Warning: Everything you do, you do on your own account. I'm not liable on any damage you, or your equipment may suffer if anything goes wrong. (I did everything succesully).

Needed things:

• 2 non-lockable switches.
• 3 1N4148 diodes (or similar).
• 3x female + 3x male 2.5mm stereoplugs (3.5mm aren't sold in Finland)
• 5m 4-wired (1x stereo..) of cable.
• 20cm of covered patch cable.
• 1 IDE patch cable
• Candle, needle, film canister (preferably soft plastic).
• Black permanent marker pen.
• Epoxy-harz glue.

As original article by J.Suokas is really good, I will not repeat it here, merely just things I did differently from his design.

Connector to camera.

I made connector to camera from a leftover IDE (harddrive) cable. I separated (using sharp knife) a block of 2x2 pins from it. You should get something like this one below.
Notice that 'X' piece. You'll need to cut it away (outmost 'walls'). There's not much need of cutting, just that it goes inside the connector (There's a small edge that stops the connector from rotating).
One problem you may bump into, is that holes may be a little too tight. Here's what I did: I took a sharp needle, warmed it over a candle and stuck it where pins go (1 and 2). This enlarged them just enough for pins to get in.
At this stage you should test the connector. It's easy, just shortcircuit wires coming from pins 1 & 2 (while camera powered), and it should take a picture. If not, then check contacts with potentiometer. Voltage difference between pin 1 and 2 should be approximately 5.2V, depending on your batteries (they are connected directly, so voltage is there even if power is off).
Now go on and connect a female connector (JS used a male connector, but there's a voltage, so I thinks it's not that wise move..) to the connector.

Now we need to make that connector look good :).
Take a permanent marker pen, and paint that (usually grayish), piece of cord black (or your favorite color, Nikons look best in black, however =).
Next step is isolating those sharp pins on back of your connector. We'll use epoxy-harz glue for that. It's hard as a rock, and it doesn't conduct electricity. So, put some of it on the connector, shape it with a match or something you can spare, and wait till it dries. Be careful with this glue, it seems to flow rather well through _tight_ places. I managed to get glue inside the pinholes, and believe me, it was hard to get it out.
After that you can paint it black ;)

Trigger -can

Go on and do it like JS says. I did shortcircuiting switch first, so I could test it. Remember that the header should be male now. I personally located button in this fashion: Triggering switch at the top of can, and focusing switch on vertical side (so I can push it with my index finger).
Remember to test it again! I didn't and had to debug whole structure, believe me, it's not fun ;)

Pictures:

Full set in view. Notice that other plug, it's shortcutted, so I don't have to press the release button all the time when doing long exposures. Another alternative would be to make a switchable button, but there's already pretty crowdy on (and in) the film canister..

Thing attached to my f801. notice how cord is pointing to 0400, and curling by itself to camera's rear.

Now we're ready to shoot. I often use Kodak film canister cap to seal the eyepiece, especially with sun coming from behind & long exposures. I haven't actually ever heard about anyone having problem with this with F801, and the mirror seems to be pretty lighttight..

Extending cord

Now that you've done all this stuff, it's easy to make an extending cords. Remember you have 2 male/female 2.5mm plugs left. They make for 2 cords with one at each end. Well you do get the picture.
I personally made 2 cords, both 5m long. I can stack them, so I get 10m distance. I could buy some old cheap cord and extend that even further away.

Some info about BW film

Some sort of category for films.

BW Films

Guideline is that slower (ISO25 vs ISO400) has more shades.

• Traditional. (these are not especially sharp nor rich in shades)
  • Kodak Tri-X
  • Ilford HP5+
• Modern. (sharp, grain may be unpleasant in shape)
  • Kodak T-max
  • Ilford Delta
• Chromogenic. (developed as C-41 aka color negs. These take more beating, -1..+3 EV)
  • Ilford XP-2
  • Kodak T-MAX 400cn

Suomalaisia liikkeitä (sijainti..)

Helsinki:

FotoYks/Freda58 -- Kampissa, tennispalatsin takana linja-autoasemalta katsoen.

Eiri/Verkkosaari

Tampere:

Helios / keskustori.

Kallioniemi / Tuomiokirkonkatu -- Rautatieasemalta Hämeentietä toinen poikittainen katu, vasemmalle.

Hertell -- Kallioniemeä vastapäätä

Rajala / Hallituskatu -- Sokoksen takana.

Ammattikuva / Rautatieasemalta yliopistoon päin pari kortellia.

J. Mäkinen.

A small photobiography of mine.

I'm still very new with photography, so there's not much to tell.

• When I was 10 years old, I tried to disassemble my father's Zenit camera. I failed, though I was able to disassemble almost everything else.
• At 11 years, I got a Fuji recyclable, It took me 3 months before I got enough pictures to develop them ;)
• at 13 my mother bought me a Kodak 35 Europe camera, I shot approx. 2 rolls with it
• Year ago (Winter '00 '01), I bought Zenit ET from a flea market, I didn't manage to make many photos with it, though I shot about 12 rolls of films with it. Suffice to say that I didn't quite know apperture/shutter ratio for certain lightning conditions..
• Sep 2001, I bought myself a Nikon F-801s + 28-80 + SB-22. I've gotten many nice photos with it, and it's a very nice camera to use.
• Oct 2001, I bought a Nikon F70. Main reason for that was to get a Sigma 70-300. I thought I'd sell F70, (it was severely underpriced..), but it's now in my gf's hands (apparently she likes it very much).
• Nov 2001, I join a KUVA2002 (picture 2002) -photography mailinglist, Jorma Puusa is in charge.
• May 2002, KUVA2002 collapses because of different visions. Jouni Riuttanen, Matti Vuori and Timo Seppälä start Vivake, and I soon joined them as a comoderator.
• Aug 2002, I've got a scanner, Minolta Dimage Scan Dual II (what a name..)
• Sep 2002, I develop my first BW's (HP5+ in ID-11)
• Feb 2003, I buy a digital camera, Nikon 950. I'm not quite happy with it, it's good for snapshots, but my main camera remains F801s.

Random texts in Finnish..

Keskeyte au Simo S.:

KESKEYTE

     Paperille:
     
        Jääetikka   99 %        15 ml/l
        Etikkahappo 44 %        40 ml/l
        Etikkahappo 24 %        75 ml/l
                             
     Filmille (pH noin 4.9):
                                  
        Jääetikka   99 %         7 ml/l
        Etikkahappo 44 %        16 ml/l
        Etikkahappo 24 %        29 ml/l

Matti Etelänperä:n vinkki:

1. Ota talteen se pätkä filmiä, jonka leikkaat rullan päästä ennen spiraalille laittoa.
2. Kiinnittäessä filmiä, kaada esim. kiinnitepullon korkkiin litkua ennen kiinnitteen kaatamista varsinaisen filmin joukkoon.
3. Laita se kohdan 1 filminpala kiinnitepullon korkkiin lillumaan samalla kun kaadat ainetta kehitysastiaan. Laita myös sekuntikello käymään.
4. Katso kellosta aika, jolloin korkissa lilluva filmipala on kirkastunut kokonaan.
5. Kerro tämä aika kahdella-kolmella, se on kokonaiskiinntysaika filmille. Pienen laskutoimituksen jälkeen voit päätellä kuinka kauan sinun pitää vielä kiinnittää varsinaista filmiä.
6. Kaada kiinnite talteen. Aineen vanhenemisen huomaat kiinnitysaikojen pidentyessä. 1+7 -kiinnitteellä yli kymmenen minuutin kiinnitysajat tuntuvat jo aika pitkiltä

Kiinnite au Simo S.:
1 litra vettä, 200 g natriumtiosulfaattia, 20 g kiteistä kaliumpyrosulfiittia.

XTOL -resepti: http://www.jetcity.com/~mrjones/mytol.htm
Rodinal: http://www.jackspcs.com/frodinal.htm
D-76: http://www.jackspcs.com/d76.htm

Quick notes

Some notes on films..

• Agfa APX25, take if you see it, discontinued.
• Maco, use ID11 as developer, not Kodak thing.

Other places where my images are

Some galleries/exhibitions I have at other places:

• A photo.net profile.
• And an aukea.net (Finnish service)profile.

Helios 58mm 1:2.8 M42

Apperture ring is fully analog, without 'click' stops. You can adjust used apperture by moving other ring and then closing apperture before taking picture.

Dayroll BFL (Bulk Film Loader)

A Bulk Film Loader I bought. It looks like a big black box. It has some film inside (loaded in total darkness). This model feeds film from between 'jaws', so it can scratch film if not clean. I took it apart and cleaned jaws with an edge of a used film (just scrape it).

Manfrotto 168 (US: Bogen 3055)

Heavy duty ballhead. Looks like an overkill for my equipment with 70-300 cheap zoom as heaviest & longest lens. Fast-lock plate extends way beyond botton of F-801s.
Lock levers are pretty stiff, and you should develop good techique releasing and locking them. I manage to not skew my composition when locking ballhead, so it's obviously a techique matter. (I don't hold camera, but rotating ballheadplate).
Weight: 0.72kg.